A Castle and a Scenic Hike in Soutomaior, Galicia
Andrea and I spent a wonderful day exploring Soutomaior, a historic and picturesque area in the province of Pontevedra and only 15 kilometers away from home. Our visit started with the Castle of Soutomaior, a medieval fortress with a fascinating past that reflects the changing tides of history in Galicia.
The Castle of Soutomaior: A Journey Through Time
The Castle of Soutomaior, nestled in the heart of Galicia, stands as a testament to the region’s rich and tumultuous history. Constructed in the 12th century during the reign of Alfonso VII, its origins are linked to Paio Méndez Sorrede, who established the foundation for what would become a significant medieval fortress.
Over the centuries, the castle underwent numerous transformations, reflecting the evolving political and social landscape of Galicia. Initially serving as a defensive stronghold, it expanded from a simple watchtower to a formidable fortress with a double-walled enclosure by the 15th century. This strategic evolution underscored its importance in regional defense and governance.
The castle’s legacy is deeply intertwined with the Soutomaior lineage, one of Galicia’s most influential noble families. Notably, Pedro Álvarez de Soutomaior, also known as Pedro Madruga, was a prominent figure associated with the castle. His life was marked by military exploits and political maneuvers that left an indelible mark on the region’s history.
An intriguing aspect of the castle’s history is its speculated connection to Christopher Columbus. Some theories propose that Pedro Madruga and Columbus were the same individual, suggesting that the castle’s lord played a direct role in the famed voyages of discovery. While this theory remains controversial and is not widely accepted among historians, it adds a layer of mystique to the castle’s narrative.
While the debate over Columbus’s origins continues, Galicia has long been one of the regions claiming a link to the famous explorer. What is certain is that Columbus was a great connoisseur of the sea, and during his time, Pontevedra was a major maritime hub. In fact, the region had a long tradition of shipbuilding, and historical documents suggest that the famous Santa María, Columbus’s flagship on his first voyage to the Americas, was built in a shipyard in the Rías Baixas. A document from 1489, signed in Pontevedra, even mentions the launch of a ship called “Santa María.” Also, Pedro Madruga’s son Cristóbal sailed to the West Indies with Columbus’ eldest son Diego.
In the 19th century, the castle transitioned from a military bastion to a more domestic role. The Marqués de la Vega de Armijo acquired the property, initiating renovations that included the addition of the Galería de Damas. This period also saw the development of the castle’s expansive gardens, introducing a variety of botanical species that enhanced its aesthetic appeal.
In the 20th century, the castle was briefly converted into a sanatorium, but it proved unprofitable. It was then purchased by a resident of Vilagarcía de Arousa, and later by an individual of Puerto Rican descent. Finally, in 1982, the Diputación de Pontevedra acquired the castle to preserve it and open it to the public.
Today, the Castle of Soutomaior stands as a monument to Galicia’s storied past, inviting visitors to explore its halls and gardens, and to delve into the legends that have shaped its enduring legacy.
Lunch at Pazo de Vaqueira
After exploring the castle and its gardens, we were ready for lunch, but unfortunately, the primary cafeteria at the castle was closed. Not to be discouraged, we did a short six-minute drive into town and found Pazo de Vaqueira, a café-bar where we enjoyed Estrella Galicia beer and sandwiches before our next adventure.
A Scenic 10K Hike Along the Verdugo River
Fueled by our meal, we set off on a 10-kilometer hike we had discovered on Wikiloc, starting by the Verdugo River. Before heading out from lunch, I quickly synced the hiking route to my Garmin Epix Pro watch, which proved incredibly useful for navigation. The trail was scenic and varied, but without GPS, it would have been easy to get lost—especially on the way back. Even with the watch, we overshot a turn by about 100 meters, and of course, it was up a steep hill!
As it was unusually sunny out—indeed, it had been raining most of the week prior—I wore a sunshade hat to make the journey more comfortable and protective from skin-aging UV light. Andrea got a laugh out of it, fondly calling me Dora la Exploradora. Apparently, Dora la Exploradora occasionally wears a large-brimmed hat in some episodes or special adventures, especially when she’s exploring outdoor environments like forests, beaches, or the jungle.
After approximately 3 km, the path was blocked by fallen branches over a small stream. After crossing the stream, we found some green trail markers on stones to the right, which led us back onto the route. The next section of the trail ran alongside the stream, followed by the aforementioned short but steep climb through the forest to rejoin the main path.
For me, this hike was a great way to stretch the legs after doing a 7-km training run earlier that morning while enjoying the peaceful Galician countryside. Along the way, we encountered sheep and horses, adding to the rural charm of the trek. The only other people we saw were a group of youngsters hanging out by the river, reinforcing how tranquil and uncrowded the trail was.
A Day Well Spent
Soutomaior turned out to be the perfect blend of history, culture, and nature. From the medieval castle with its ties to Columbus to a refreshing hike through the lush Galician landscape, it was a day filled with discovery and adventure.
Whether you’re a history buff, an outdoor enthusiast, or simply looking for a peaceful escape, Soutomaior has something special to offer in a rural area of Galicia.
