A Visit to Barcelona, Costa Brava, and Girona

by Felix Wong | 04 Jul 2024

In July, I had the chance to visit Barcelona and the Costa Brava, combining a family reunion with some solo exploration. My brother’s youngest son was to attend an aquatics summer camp in Lloret de Mar, a town north of Barcelona, and his entire family decided to make a vacation out of it. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to join them even though Andrea couldn’t make it due to her demanding job as an emergency doctor. Still, it was a trip filled with memorable experiences.

Running Through History: Montjuic and the Olympic Center

My first morning in Barcelona started with a run up Montjuic, a hill overlooking the city that is steeped in history and culture. The route took me through the Olympic complex, a reminder of the 1992 Summer Olympics. The view from the top was spectacular, offering a panoramic vista of the city and the sea. It was a refreshing way to start the day and a fitting introduction to Barcelona’s blend of modernity and tradition.

Gaudí’s Hidden Gem: Casa Vicens

Later that day, we visited Casa Vicens, one of Antoni Gaudí’s earlier works. Having already seen Casa Batlló and Casa Milà on previous trips, I was struck by how different Casa Vicens was from these more famous creations. The house’s vibrant colors and intricate tile work contrasted sharply with the flowing, organic forms I had come to associate with Gaudí. It was a reminder of the architect’s incredible range and his ability to reinvent his style.

A Taste of Catalonia

No trip to Barcelona is complete without indulging in the local cuisine. We visited several markets, including the Mercat de la Libertat, where we marveled at the array of fresh produce, meats, and cheeses. For lunch, we settled in at Pepa Tomate, a charming spot where we enjoyed an authentic Catalan meal. The flavors were bold and comforting, a true reflection of the region’s culinary heritage.

Our afternoon was spent shopping at El Corte Inglés, a luxury department store chain. It’s akin to Nordstrom or Harrods and provided a nice contrast to the traditional market experience.

A Birthday Feast at Nobu

That evening, we had a special dinner planned at Nobu Restaurant in Barcelona. This Japanese restaurant, started by celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa, is part of a global chain famous for its luxurious dining experiences. The restaurant offers stunning views of Barcelona, making it a perfect spot for celebrations. We were there to celebrate my sister-in-law’s and nephew’s birthdays, and the evening did not disappoint.

The dinner was a culinary journey, with dishes arriving every ten minutes or so until we were completely satiated. We savored a variety of delicacies, including yellowtail jalapeño, black cod croquettes, and an impressive sushi platter. The biggest surprise of the evening came when Nobu Matsuhisa himself walked in. My brother recognized him immediately, and it turns out this was Nobu’s first visit to the Barcelona location. He made his way around the tables, greeting guests, and was incredibly warm and friendly. It was a surreal experience to meet the chef behind such a renowned restaurant.

Roman Ruins in Tarragona

The next day, we took a trip to Tarragona, a city known for its well-preserved Roman ruins. We explored the ancient amphitheater, which overlooks the Mediterranean, and the Roman Circus, where chariot races were once held. Walking through the narrow streets of Tarragona, I could almost feel the weight of history around me. It was a fascinating glimpse into Spain’s rich past.

Sitges

After our family outing in Tarragona, I headed to Sitges alone to meet up with Manu, an acquaintance and ultra-cycling enthusiast. Manu is gearing up for the Badlands bikepacking race in Spain this September, so our conversation naturally revolved around cycling. We discussed his bike setup, training regimen, and the grueling challenges of bikepacking. I’m looking forward to following his progress during the race.

Sitges itself is a charming town with beautiful beaches and a relaxed atmosphere. I took some time to explore the area, walking down to the main church and along the beaches. It’s a place I’d love to revisit..

Lloret de Mar: Party Town with a Scenic Side

The next day, we all met up in Lloret de Mar, where my nephew’s summer camp was based. My sister-in-law had warned me that Lloret de Mar was a bit of a party town, and she wasn’t wrong. It reminded me of Miami, though ironically, in Miami, you hear a lot more Spanish! The town was packed with tourists, mostly young partiers from abroad.

Despite the crowds, I managed to find some quieter spots. I hiked along the coast to the Sant Joan Castle and visited the Santa Clotilde Gardens, a peaceful Japanese-style garden with stunning views of the Mediterranean. I also explored some of the beaches, although my plan to swim at Playa Cala Sa Boadella was thwarted when I discovered it was a nudist beach. I turned around and headed to Platja de Fenals instead, where I enjoyed a refreshing swim.

On the way, I met some French tourists who asked for directions to the beaches. We chatted in French, and I ended up guiding them to Platja de Fenals after explaining the situation at Cala Sa Boadella. It was a funny encounter that added a little adventure to my day.

My time in Lloret de Mar ended with a morning run to the Castell de Lloret, which my sister-in-law jokingly referred to as a “fake church.” The run offered some great views and was a fitting way to say goodbye to the town.

Tossa de Mar: Music, Sunset, and Ice Cream

From Lloret de Mar, we traveled to Tossa de Mar, a picturesque seaside town. We had a wonderful dinner there before hiking up to the lighthouse. As the sun set, a musician began playing guitar and singing, creating a magical atmosphere. A group of young people started dancing, and for a moment, it felt like we were all part of a spontaneous celebration of life. We ended the evening with some ice cream in town before catching a late-night taxi back to Lloret de Mar.

Girona: Cycling and a Final Adventure

Our last stop was Girona, a city that has become a mecca for cyclists. We had lunch at La Fábrica, a coffee shop owned by former pro Canadian cyclist Christian Meier and his wife Amber. The place was filled with cycling memorabilia, which was a treat for a cycling enthusiast like me.

Continuing the cycling theme, we visited The Service Course, a high-end bike shop where I showed my brother some top-of-the-line bikes, including models from Utah-based Enve that cost upwards of 11,000€.

After my brother left to pick up his son from camp and head back to California, I stayed in Girona for another day to rent a bike and tackle the famous Rococorba climb. I rented a Wilier Triestina Jareen gravel bike from Eat Sleep Cycle and set off on what would be a challenging ride. The climb up Rococorba was tough, especially in the summer heat, but the views from the top were worth every drop of sweat.

Unfortunately, I had started the ride with only 30% battery on my Garmin watch, which died just after I reached the summit. Navigating back with my handheld Garmin Edge 530 was tricky, especially on the gravel roads. I ended up returning the bike an hour late, but the shop was understanding and didn’t charge me extra.

Just when I thought my adventures in Girona were over, I encountered a bit of drama outside the bike shop. A man was vomiting on the sidewalk, and his friend was frantically asking for help. A woman nearby turned out to be a doctor, and she quickly took charge. A crowd gathered, but it seemed like everything turned out okay without the need for an ambulance. It was a strange but fitting end to my eventful trip.

Reflections on the Memorable Journey

This trip to Barcelona and the Costa Brava was a perfect mix of family time, cultural exploration, and personal adventure. From running in the shadow of Montjuic to cycling up the steep slopes of Rococorba, I experienced the region in a way that was both personal and connected to the broader history and culture of Catalonia.