Colorado Western Uplands: Scenic Drives, Hot Springs & Small-Town Charm
We began our trip in Fruita, Colorado, where I kicked things off with a 3.3-mile morning run from our hotel, the very comfortable La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham. The hotel was very nice with modern, spacious suites rooms, friendly staff, and good amenities. It also happened to sit next to a dinosaur museum—a fun little detail. On my run I noticed the signage for the museum and it triggered a memory: I recently read that the Brontosaurus was discovered from fossils found not in, say, Africa, but in Wyoming, near Como Bluff, in 1879. It may be interesting to load that museum into a future-year visit.
After returning from the run, we enjoyed a full breakfast buffet at the hotel: fresh fruit, eggs, bacon, toast, and brewed coffee. There were waffles, cereals, and muffins there as well. It was an excellent start to the day.
From Fruita we hit the road, heading north and taking scenic highways with much less traffic than the typical interstates. I’d never driven this route before, and it was a delight: winding curves, stunning vistas, and pure driving joy at every turn. The road was made for the Audi TT Roadster Quattro—leaning into the bends, steering back and forth like an F1 driver, feeling every twist and undulation beneath my hands.
One particular stretch, the winding route of Colorado State Highway 139, stood out: a narrow mountain ribbon, sweeping turns, canyon walls, forest and rock—perfect sports-car terrain for someone who enjoys driving.
Next stop: Rangely, Colorado. This little town (population around 2,500) has a rugged charm and is often described as a “mini-Moab” for its desert-mountain landscape and outdoor-adventure feel. We drove through and I could sort of understand the comparison with that Utah city: sandstone, open skies, wide expanses, and a feeling of remoteness that still invites exploration.
From Rangely, we continued east on U.S. Highway 40 toward Steamboat Springs—a 135-mile drive that was nearly as scenic as that between Fruita and Rangely. The road began in high-desert country, surrounded by rugged mesas and streaks of red sandstone, before gradually climbing into greener, more mountainous terrain. Traffic was almost nonexistent, allowing for relaxed, flowing driving through open range country where pronghorn often graze near the roadside. We passed through the tiny town of Maybell—little more than a gas station, café, and a few old storefronts—then continued on to Craig, a larger ranching community known for its coal-mining heritage and friendly, no-nonsense atmosphere.
Beyond Craig, the scenery grew progressively lusher, with cottonwoods lining the Yampa River and the rolling hills giving way to forested slopes as we approached the Routt National Forest. By the time we reached Steamboat Springs, the air had cooled, the elevation had climbed to over 6,700 feet, and we were ready to settle in for a relaxing afternoon and evening in one of Colorado’s most charming mountain towns.
Steamboat Springs now has a population of over 13,000. I mentioned to Andrea how despite being a relatively small town, it boasts a remarkable number of nationally or internationally known manufacturers specializing in outdoor goods. For example, during the Tour Divide, I used an ultralight 1-person tent from Big Agnes, which is based here. Moots Cycles and Erickson cycles—who both manufacturer custom titanium bikes—are based in Steamboat. Other well-known names include Smartwool (merino apparel) and Honey Stinger (endurance nutrition). It gives the place a special flavor: you walk downtown and you feel the outdoor-industry DNA in the air.
While strolling downtown we saw signage for the Run Rabbit Run Ultramarathon. Moreover, we encountered some people who were in town for it, since it was being held in just two more days. It’s a long-distance trail run event (100-miler, 50-miler and shorter distances) through the mountains around Steamboat. Spotting the signs reminded us how this region lives and breathes outdoor endurance sports.
For lunch we went to the Mai Thai restaurant downtown, which served a very extensive menu of classic Thai dishes. Andrea chose a plate of Pad Thai. I ordered Drunken Noodles. Both were excellent.
We continued our walk downtown earlier in the day along the Yampa River, which bisects Steamboat. The downtown atmosphere is relaxed yet vibrant: eclectic shops, coffee houses, outdoor-gear stores, a mix of Western heritage and modern active lifestyle. The river-walk adds a pleasant element: water, greenery, benches, people out for a stroll.
From there, we drove out to Fish Creek Falls for a hike to the waterfalls. It wasn’t too busy, which made it enjoyable and peaceful. The falls cascade impressively, surrounded by forested slopes, offering a nice counterpoint to the faster-paced driving and exploring we’d done earlier.
In the evening we visited the Strawberry Park Hot Springs, following a recommendation from Microsoft Copilot that Andrea eagerly accepted. I had booked us for a 6:00 p.m. reservation. A few local-logistics notes: the hot springs take cash only, and after November 1 the access road requires four wheel drive with snow tires or chains. Luckily we were there in September, and even my little convertible made the drive just fine. The cost was $20 per person—well worth it. The hot-springs area had a very peaceful and beautiful vibe: multiple pools, one section ultra-hot, and a larger general area at a comfortable temperature. Aspen trees surrounded the pools, the water was soothing, the air crisp and mountain-fresh. We soaked for quite awhile, watching the light fading, hearing leaves rustle, feeling totally refreshed.
On the final leg we headed back toward Fort Collins via the Poudre Canyon Highway. But first we stopped in Walden, Colorado. I was excited to show Andrea this little town because it marked my turnaround point on a 200-mile round-trip bike ride I’ve done from Fort Collins on every one of my six bicycles—including a recumbent, mountain bike, and even a one-speed Huffy cruiser.
In Walden we visited the Stockman Bar—a friendly local bar, good service, a pool table and country-music playing. They even had my favorite brand of non-alcoholic beer outside of Estrella Galicia— Budweiser Zero—and Andrea had her Coors Light. They served up a good plate of nachos, too. It was a nice, down-to-earth stop in the mountain-town rhythm.
We then completed the drive to Fort Collins. Darkness had already fallen hours before we entered the Poudre Canyon Highway, which was a bit unfortunate because it a super beautiful drive where you often can even see moose. At least Andrea had already seen the lower 40-miles from Rustic to Fort Collins in daylight with our friend Manuel on a scenic drive a few years ago.
The next day, we stayed in Fort Collins for a bit of recuperation before continuing the road trip—and for me to pick up a new car! But that’s a story for the next post.
