Andrea watching the paragliders over Lookout Mountain in Golden, Colorado.

Ambling Through Northern Colorado’s Front Range

September turned out to be a perfect month for adventure. Andrea had a couple of weeks off, and she’d always wanted to visit Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon—two iconic destinations in the American Southwest that even I had never been to. After checking the weather and crowds, September looked ideal for both. This had all the makings of an unforgettable road trip.

I flew to Colorado from Spain a couple of weeks before Andrea, and when she arrived, I picked her up from the Denver airport. I had already mapped out an itinerary that would take us from Fort Collins to Page, Arizona, hitting some of the most scenic and iconic spots along the way. But before heading south, we spent a few days exploring the northern Colorado Front Range.

Fort Collins, Devil’s Backbone, and Loveland

Our adventures began in Fort Collins, the city I still have a home.

One morning, Andrea and I went for a run together before spending a relaxing few hours with our friend Mel—who happened to be “our neighbor” for the day while she was dog-sitting my real neighbors—at the neighborhood pool.

For lunch, Andrea and I went to Chipotle, the famous fast-casual chain that was founded in Colorado (Denver, to be exact). It’s one of those things I sort of miss when I’m in Spain. Andrea likes it too, especially their burritos.

Later that afternoon, we went for a scenic drive via Horsetooth Reservoir and Masonville to the Devil’s Backbone trailhead off Highway 35. As we pulled into the lot, a woman approached and kindly offered her parking receipt—she had “only used it for 30 minutes” and didn’t want it to go to waste. It was a really kind gesture and set a nice tone for the day.

About 20 minutes into the hike, we stopped at a vantage point where I pointed out some of the Rocky Mountains, most notably Long’s Peak—the most northern (and probably the most popular) fourteener in Colorado. I told Andrea about the States of Elevation project that Kilian Jornet—one of the world’s greatest ultrarunners who hails from Spain—was about to undertake. It would involve not only running (or speed-hiking) nearly all of the fourteeners in the continental United States, but also biking to each one of them for a purely human-powered feat.

“He is going to start over there at Long’s Peak,” I said. “I think he is going to start any day now.”

The view of the Rocky Mountains from Devil's Backbone. You can see Long's Peak (14,251')—the most northern 14er in Colorado—to the right of Mt. Meeker (13,811') in the left third of the photo. They are the twin peaks that are kind of faint behind the storm clouds.
The view of the Rocky Mountains from Devil's Backbone. You can see Long's Peak (14,251')—the most northern 14er in Colorado—to the right of Mt. Meeker (13,811') in the left third of the photo. They are the twin peaks that are kind of faint behind the storm clouds.

As it turned out, Kilian commenced his incredibly ambitious project the next day, only 14 or so hours after I pointed out Long’s to Andrea. He would complete it 31 days later, achieving several speed records along the way.

We continued on to the Keyhole, the rock formation that gives the trail its name. From there, we turned around and headed back to the parking lot. Despite the 94°F (34°C) heat, I was comfortable in what Andrea calls my Dora la Exploradora sun hat, light H&M jacket (that I only took off for photos), and jeans.

Felix inside the Keyhole at Devil's Backbone.
Felix inside the Keyhole at Devil's Backbone.

After the hike, we wandered through downtown Loveland. Andrea was right—it’s not quite as charming as downtown Fort Collins—but it had its own appeal: boutiques with interesting finds, a mix of old brick buildings and modern flats, and a huge coffeehouse called Feel Love Coffee. The place had cozy “rooms” with couches that offered a bit of privacy, perfect for conversations over cappuccinos.

That evening, we met up with Mel, E, and Manuel at the East End Pub. The barista, Liza, greeted us warmly, told us about the place, and even offered a complimentary “pickle bobber” vodka shot. The pub wasn’t crowded, so it felt friendly and local. I ordered pizza for the group while Open Mic Night music played and the first NFL game of the season—Eagles vs. Cowboys—was on TV.

Andrea and Mel at East End Alehouse in Loveland, which had live music playing that night.
Andrea and Mel at East End Alehouse in Loveland, which had live music playing that night.

Conversation drifted to cars and Bryan Johnson, the biohacker billionaire. I tried (unsuccessfully) to convince E that he should join the Rejuvenation Games—something I have a strong interest in myself—given his already disciplined habits: early bedtime, no alcohol or sugar, intermittent fasting, and near-daily workouts.

The next morning, Andrea and I ran 10 kilometers from home in Fort Collins, including a stop at Richards Lake. Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves with drinks and olives on the deck—a simple pleasure that felt perfect before we packed up for the next leg of our journey.

Longmont and Boulder

After departing Fort Collins with bags and suitcases in tow—we’d be on the road for a week, after all—we stopped by Longmont at Modern Market Eatery, a place that prides itself on fresh, scratch-made meals using wholesome ingredients. It was the kind of place where everything—from the vibrant salads to hearty grain bowls—tastes as good as it looks.

From there, we headed straight to Boulder—a city that is world famous despite its population of just 108,000, one that Andrea had heard about but I had never taken her to until now.

We stopped by the Apple Store in Boulder at the 29th Street Mall before strolling through downtown. Boulder always impresses with its mix of cute homes, tree-lined streets, and scenic views of the Flatirons. There’s also an unmistakable energy—healthy, outdoorsy, and youthful—that’s uniquely Boulder.

That evening, we met up with our friend Eddie, whom we hadn’t seen since last year in Spain. He had invited us for dinner at The Rio Grande restaurant, where we enjoyed delectable Mexican food on the rooftop terrace as the sun dipped behind the Flatirons. He lives close enough that he was able to bike over.

Eddie, Andrea, and Felix on the rooftop of the Rio Grande restaurant in downtown Boulder.
Eddie, Andrea, and Felix on the rooftop of the Rio Grande restaurant in downtown Boulder.

Just as we were finishing up, a CU parade began—part of the tradition held the night before the University of Colorado football games. Cheerleaders shouting “Go Buffs!,” the CU mascot, and the marching band passed right in front of us on Pearl Street, the crowd cheering wildly. It was a quintessential Boulder moment.

A University of Colorado cheerleader and the CU mascot on Pearl Street Mall in downtown Boulder.
A University of Colorado cheerleader and the CU mascot on Pearl Street Mall in downtown Boulder.

Lakewood

After dinner, we drove to Lakewood, where we stayed overnight at a modern and spacious Home2 Suites by Hilton. The next morning, we went for a 6-kilometer run through quiet residential streets. It was my first time in Lakewood. Aside from the run, we didn’t spend much time there, but my first impressions was that this Denver suburb seemed clean and peaceful.

Many homes were already decorated for Halloween—giant skeletons towering over lawns—even though it was still more than seven weeks away!

Golden

From Lakewood, we made our way to Golden, a historic town nestled at the base of the Rocky Mountains.

We started the morning at Café 13 with coffee, a breakfast burrito, and some incredible cinnamon rolls. Outside the café, Andrea spotted her first Tesla Cybertruck—or as I kept calling it, the vehículo triangular. It was wrapped in matte black vinyl, which I told her typically costs around $4,000. She was astonished anyone would pay that much just for a color—Cybertrucks can only be ordered in a stainless steel finish like the old DeLoreans—even though black is her favorite color for a car.

Outside of Cafe 13 where we had a nice breakfast in downtown Golden, Andrea saw a Tesla Cybertruck in person for the first time. This one had a matte black vinyl wrap.
Outside of Cafe 13 where we had a nice breakfast in downtown Golden, Andrea saw a Tesla Cybertruck in person for the first time. This one had a matte black vinyl wrap.

After breakfast, we strolled around downtown Golden. The iconic “Howdy Folks! Welcome to Golden—Where the West Lives!” sign still hangs proudly over Main Street. I had only been here once before—twenty years ago during my Great American Road Trip—so it was great to revisit.

We saw the Coors Brewery, which I was eager to point out to Andrea since Coors happens to be her favorite American beer. She says it tastes the most like Estrella Galicia, our favorite Spanish beer. Even my friend Antxon from San Sebastián once made a point of trying “that Rocky Mountain beer” when he visited Colorado years ago.

Golden was lively and full of charm. The creek that runs through town, Clear Creek, doubles as a waterpark in the summer, where people float down in tubes. Cyclists, hikers, and families filled the paths along the river.

A farmer’s market was in full swing, so we explored the stalls and browsed through some local boutiques. Afterwards, we drove up Lookout Mountain—a climb I had last gone up by bicycle in 2017, but during the wee hours of the morning while it was still dark. This time I could actually enjoy the scenery.

The drive was beautiful, with sweeping views of Golden below and the Front Range stretching into the distance. Dozens of cyclists—many more of them than motorists—were pedaling uphill, and we even saw a dozen paragliders soaring overhead. We stopped at a viewpoint to watch them drift through the sky, colorful wings contrasting against the blue.

Andrea watching the paragliders over Lookout Mountain in Golden, Colorado.
Andrea watching the paragliders over Lookout Mountain in Golden, Colorado.

Golden left a lasting impression on us—the river, the cyclists, the paragliders, the small-town feel right at the foot of the mountains. It’s one of those places that manages to feel both peaceful and full of life.

After Golden, we continued on toward Summit County and beyond—but I’ll recount that in the next post.

Andrea at Devil's Backbone in Loveland.
Andrea at Devil's Backbone in Loveland.
Andrea inside the Keyhole at Devil's Backbone.
Andrea inside the Keyhole at Devil's Backbone.
The trails of Devil's Backbone in Loveland.
The trails of Devil's Backbone in Loveland.
Andrea walking by the characteristic rocks of Devil's Backbone.
Andrea walking by the characteristic rocks of Devil's Backbone.
A heart-shaped rock Andrea found at Devil’s Backbone.
A heart-shaped rock Andrea found at Devil’s Backbone.
Felix by a heart-themed mural in downtown Loveland.
Felix by a heart-themed mural in downtown Loveland.
Andrea in front of a starry night-themed mural in downtown Loveland.
Andrea in front of a starry night-themed mural in downtown Loveland.
A happy pig we ran by in north Fort Collins.
A happy pig we ran by in north Fort Collins.
Andrea running towards the Maple Hill pedestrian tunnel in north Fort Collins.
Andrea running towards the Maple Hill pedestrian tunnel in north Fort Collins.
Andrea on the beach of Richards Lake at the end of our run.
Andrea on the beach of Richards Lake at the end of our run.
Enjoying drinks and olives in the back yard after a morning run.
Enjoying drinks and olives in the back yard after a morning run.
Andrea in front of a
Andrea in front of a "Greetings from Boulder" sign at the 29th Street Mall.
Felix and Andrea by the Boulder Creek in downtown Boulder.
Felix and Andrea by the Boulder Creek in downtown Boulder.
Andrea with the iconic
Andrea with the iconic "Howdy Folks!" sign in downtown Golden.
Two people floating down Clear Creek in downtown Golden, with the Coor's factory in the background.
Two people floating down Clear Creek in downtown Golden, with the Coor's factory in the background.
Strolling through a Saturday farmer's market in downtown Golden.
Strolling through a Saturday farmer's market in downtown Golden.
People enjoying the nice weather at Clear Creek Whitewater Park in downtown Golden.
People enjoying the nice weather at Clear Creek Whitewater Park in downtown Golden.
Many paragliders were over Lookout Mountain above the city of Golden, Colorado.
Many paragliders were over Lookout Mountain above the city of Golden, Colorado.
Andrea at Clear Creek Whitewater Park in downtown Golden.
Andrea at Clear Creek Whitewater Park in downtown Golden.